Limited FAQ

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In the posts below are brief explanations on how various limited formats work, some tournament fundamentals and information how you get the cards to make a deck. There is a separate post for the following topics:

* Individual Sealed
* Team Sealed
* Booster Draft
* Rochester Draft
* Team Rochester Draft
* Team Booster Draft / Money Draft
* General Sealed Strategy / Article Links

While this does not cover every possible limited format, it does cover the more common formats. There are a few more obscure formats like Solomon draft and Rotisserie draft that are not listed here, but if there is enough demand I can explain them.

If you have any questions or comments feel free to let me know.
*Individual Sealed

After you are given a seat you will receive 1 tournament pack and 2 or 3 boosters. (At most sealed events it is just 2 boosters, however at the prereleases for the smaller expansions you will receive 3 boosters.) Don't open them until the staff tells you to. In fact, you may not even be playing with these cards. Some sealed deck tournaments have what is known as a sealed deck swap. This is done to help prevent cheating by having players register all of the cards in a deck and then somehow redistributing the sets of cards. If the tournament is not having a sealed deck swap skip to the section on building your deck.


Open the packs when they tell you, and arrange the cards by set, color and alphabetically. For example you will want all of the white Onslaught cards arranged alphabetically. You will have received a deck registration sheet with the cards; this is where you will mark down all of the cards in this card pool. Make sure that you put your name and DCI number at the top of this registration sheet under where it says 'Player Registering Deck.' Also make sure that when you register the deck that you mark the card in the deck under the 'Total' column, and not the 'Played' column. It's very important you are thorough and careful when you do this.

When you are done, you usually put all of these cards into a bag / tournament pack box along with the registration sheet and return them to the judges. You are usually granted 20 minutes to complete the entire registration process.

At most tournaments the judges will collect all of the basic lands that you had in the tournament packs during the registration process. Don't worry; you will get basic lands to play with later.

When everyone has returned their cards they redistribute them, this is the deck swap. Sometimes they will specifically give a certain number of players their own decks back. When you get your cards double check that the cards you have are what is written down. If there is any discrepancy, call for a judge.

All of this is done because it's harder to cheat by bringing cards that you already have and sneaking them into your deck. This way at least one other person will have seen your entire card pool and there is a record of what is in it.

Deck Construction

After all of the above is done, you get 30 minutes to put your 40-card deck together. Mark down the cards that you intend to use under the 'Total' column on the registration sheet. You will also write your name and DCI number on the registration sheet under where it states 'Player Using Deck.' (Remember all of the cards that are not in your main deck are your sideboard, and you may still play with them at some point.) When you are done, you write down all of the cards that you will be playing in your main deck and give the list to the judges. Make sure you write down the basic lands that you intend on using. When you submit your completed registration list you will usually be given basic lands to include in your deck.

FYI: Sealed Deck PTQs will cut to top 8 and those players will either booster or Rochester draft.
*Team Sealed

Team sealed deck is very similar to individual sealed deck. You will be given product, register it, swap decks and build decks, you just do it with three people.

Each team must consist of three members. When you register your team you will supply the names and DCI numbers of each team member as well as the name of that team. You will also designate each member as either player A, Player B, or Player C. This will be used to determine who the individual members on your team will play against on the opposing team.

Each team will receive 2 Tournament packs, and 4 boosters. Most team sealed events take place after all three expansions in a block have been released so you will receive 2 Tournament packs of the base set, 2 boosters packs of the first small expansion in that block and 2 more of the other small expansion in that block. Your entire team will register that pool of cards and prepare it for the deck swap (See registration section on Sealed Deck).

After the deck swap is done and your team has received its card pool to use, your team will have to make a deck for each individual player on the team. Cards that are not used in the decks are part of the decks can be used in sideboards. However in team sealed the team does not share sideboard cards. You must divide up these remaining cars amongst the individual players as well. This way each player / deck will have an individual sideboard.

When your team goes to play another team the players on each team with the same designation, Player A, Player B, Player C, will play against each other. Each pairing will play a best of three match just like most other tournaments. However the way a team wins a round is when at least two of its members win their matches. For example If players A and C on your team won their individual matches, then your team will have won that round.

Virtually every other part of a team sealed deck tournament works the same as any other.

FYI: The finals in a team sealed PTQ will usually be team Rochester draft.
* Booster Draft

Most drafts have 8 people in them, however you can have as few as 4 and sometimes as many as 10-12. (In order for the draft to be sanctioned it must have at least 8 players.) You take all of these people and seat them in a circle. In a large tournament with multiple drafts running at the same time this one table of drafters is called a pod.

Each player will start the draft with at least three 15-card packs. (You can use more than 3 packs, but most drafts just use three. Also if you have them you can draft some of the older 8 cards packs, but you will need more than three.) It does not matter what packs they are, but each player must have the same kind of packs. When drafting packs from multiple sets each player must open the same pack at the same time. While there is no official order, most sanctioned tournaments will open packs in a block according to when the expansions were released.

At the same time each player will take his first pack and open it. Of these 15 cards in this pack, you will need to choose one. Take the remaining 14 and pass them to your left. You then take the 14 cards that the person on your right passed to you and take 1 card. Then pass the remaining 13 cards to your left. You do this until you have gone through the entire pack. After this first pack you get a minute or so to look through the cards you have drafted. Then you open the second pack and do the same thing only you pass to the right after you have taken a card. And then for the third and final pack you pass to the left again.

When you are done drafting you construct your deck. You want your deck to be 2 colors, with a possible splash of a third color. By splash I mean only 1-3 cards of that color. Your deck will have to contain a minimum of 40 cards. It is a good idea to draft at least 14 good playable creatures and more if you can. Generally you will play with 14-18 creatures, 5-9 spells and 16-18 lands. The tournament organizer will supply you with whatever basic land you need.
* Rochester Draft

While you use the same number of packs and the same number of people in Rochester as you do in booster draft, the mechanics of the draft itself are very different. (This is a fairly detailed explanation, as Rochester draft can easily confuse newer players)

You start out in the same pattern of 8 people sitting in a circle around a table, however only 1 pack of cards is opened at a time. The players around the table are numbered 1-8. Player # 1 will open his pack of 15 cards first. He will take these cards and lay them out in three rows of five cards on the table facing him. After a 30 second review period where the entire table looks at the cards, player #1 will take one card. Then player #2 will take a card, followed by player #3, #4 and so on. This process will continue until you reach player #8. Immediately after player #8 takes a card he will take another card. At this point the order of who picks reverses and player #7 will take a card, followed by player #6 and so on. This process will repeat until player #2 takes the 15th card.

Here is the order in which picks would take place:

Pick # 1 - Player # 1
Pick # 2 - Player # 2
Pick # 3 - Player # 3
Pick # 4 - Player # 4
Pick # 5 - Player # 5
Pick # 6 - Player # 6
Pick # 7 - Player # 7
Pick # 8 - Player # 8
Pick # 9 - Player # 8
Pick # 10 - Player # 7
Pick # 11- Player # 6
Pick # 12 - Player # 5
Pick # 13 - Player # 4
Pick # 14 - Player # 3
Pick # 15 - Player # 2

In a normal 8-player Rochester draft each player will only receive 1 card from the pack that he opened. This process of reversing the pick order once everyone has received one card is called the 'wheel'

In the event that you do not have 8 players you will continue to draft the entire pack and 'wheel' again after everyone has taken two cards. For example in a 7-player Rochester draft this is order in which picks would take place:

Pick # 1 - Player # 1
Pick # 2 - Player # 2
Pick # 3 - Player # 3
Pick # 4 - Player # 4
Pick # 5 - Player # 5
Pick # 6 - Player # 6
Pick # 7 - Player # 7
Pick # 8 - Player # 7
Pick # 9 - Player # 6
Pick # 10 - Player # 5
Pick # 11 - Player # 4
Pick # 12 - Player # 3
Pick # 13 - Player # 2
Pick # 14 - Player # 1
Pick # 15 - Player # 1

After player #1's pack has been drafted, player #2 will open his pack of cards and arrange them in 3 rows of 5 cards each. You will draft this pack in the same way as the first pack.

Because the spot at which you reverse direction in the draft changes with each pack, it is often helpful to use an object to indicate where the draft will reverse. For example during the first pack you might want to stick a pen / table tent or other noticeable object between players 1 and 8. Then when the draft reaches player 8, the pick order will 'bounce' off of this object and the draft will reverse. Then in pack #2 you move this object to between player #1 and #2.

After you draft the first pack from players #1-8, the order in which you open packs and who drafts will reverse gain. In other words after player #8 opens his first pack and it is completely drafted, player #8 will open his second pack to draft. At this point the order of who picks will also reverse. Player #8 will get to pick the first card, followed by player #7, player #6 and so on. After player #1 has taken a card, he will take another card and the order of picks will reverse again.

Here is the order in which picks would take place when player #8 opens his second pack:

Pick # 1 - Player # 8
Pick # 2 - Player # 7
Pick # 3 - Player # 6
Pick # 4 - Player # 5
Pick # 5 - Player # 4
Pick # 6 - Player # 3
Pick # 7 - Player # 2
Pick # 8 - Player # 1
Pick # 9 - Player # 1
Pick # 10 - Player # 2
Pick # 11 - Player # 3
Pick # 12 - Player # 4
Pick # 13 - Player # 5
Pick # 14 - Player # 6
Pick # 15 - Player # 7

Drafting packs in this way will continue until each player has opened 2 packs. Once player #1 has opened his second pack of card to draft the process will reverse again and the last set of packs will be drafted just like the first set.

Once all of the packs have been drafted each player will build a deck regular 40-card deck. The tournament organizer will supply whatever basic lands you need to supplement your deck.

Top 8 Rochester Draft

At the end of a tournament when a single elimination Rochester draft is held amongst the top eight, these eight players will sit around the table according to their ranking in the Swiss portion of the main event as follows:


Additionally, the person who is ranked #1 gets the opportunity to choose who will open the first pack. Most often he will choose the person who is 2 - 3 seats to his right. This will allow him to make the third or fourth pick in the first pack, and for his pack to be the third or fourth opened. This is often seen as the best seat to be in for a variety of strategic reasons.

Most articles on draft strategy deal with specific sets and what to look for, however I have found one article that gives a good analysis of the strategic differences between booster and Rochester draft. (The examples used in this article are all from Invasion Block, however the principles are still the same.) You can find that article here:
* Team Rochester Draft

Team Rochester Draft is usually only played at the finals of a team sealed event, at the team sealed Pro Tour, the national team portion of the World Championships or by people preparing for those events. However it is an interesting format that and like individual Rochester draft it can be very confusing to newer players.

Just as in team sealed, the team members in team Rochester each have a designation of player A, player B, and player C. These designations are important, as it will determine who sits where at the draft table. Below is a chart showing each team member sits:

Team 1 player A - Team 1 player B- Team 1 player C
Team 2 player C- Team 2 player B- Team 2 player A

As you can see a single team will sit on one side of the table next to each other. Additionally players with the same designation on opposing teams will sit on the opposite side of the table from each other.

The winner of a coin toss, or other random method, decides which team will open the first pack. Or if this Rochester Draft is used in the finals of a Team Sealed event, the team that placed higher in the Swiss portion of the event will decide which team will open first. The first pack is always opened by the middle ?B? player on a team. (For the purposes of this example we are going to assume that Team #1 is going to open first) Just like in individual Rochester draft that player will open his pack and arrange the 15 cards in 3 rows of 5 cards. After a 30 second review of the cards player B on Team #1 will make a pick. The pick order goes clockwise in the first pack so player C on Team #1 will make the second pick. He is followed by player A on Team #2, player B on Team #2 and so on. Just like in individual Rochester draft, once each player has drafted a single card the last person to take a card will take another and the order of picks will reverse until the entire pack has been drafted. Then after each player has received 2 picks the order will reverse again.

Below is a chart of the order of picks in the first pack:

Pick # 1 - Player B on Team #1
Pick # 2 - Player C on Team #1
Pick # 3 - Player A on Team #2
Pick # 4 - Player B on Team #2
Pick # 5 - Player C on Team #2
Pick # 6 - Player A on Team #1
Pick # 7 - Player A on Team #1
Pick # 8 - Player C on Team #2
Pick # 9 - Player B on Team #2
Pick # 10 - Player A on Team #2
Pick # 11- Player C on Team #1
Pick # 12 - Player B on Team #1
Pick # 13 - Player B on Team #1
Pick # 14 - Player C on Team #1
Pick # 15 - Player A on Team #2

After this pack has been opened then player C on team #1 will open his first pack to be drafted. The order of who opens a pack will continue in the same clockwise direction until you reach player A on team #1. After his first pack has been drafted, he will open his second pack to be drafted. The second set of packs will be drafted in a counter-clockwise order. This means that player A on Team #1 will take the first pick of this pack and be followed by player C on Team #2, player B on Team #2 and so on. After this second set of packs has been drafted, the third set will be opened and drafted just like the first set, with player B opening the first pack and the pick order proceeding in a clockwise direction.

One important final note, during the draft players are not allowed to talk to each other or use any verbal signals. However pointing and gesturing at cards and players is OK. Some player have even painted their fingernails the five different Magic colors in order to try and communicate with their teammates on who should pick what cards and what colors.

After the draft is completed the teams separate to build individual 40 card decks. They can assist each other in the construction of these decks, but are not allowed to exchange or trade any cards.

Then when the decks are completed the two teams will play each other. Just like in team sealed the players of the same designation on opposite teams will play each other to play individual matches. In other words player A on team #1 will play a match against player A on Team #2. Whichever team manages to win 2 of the three matches will win the draft.
* Team Booster Draft / Money Draft

While not a sanctioned format, team booster draft is a very common way to play. It is often played at tournaments sites after players have dropped from the main event, or even on designated nights at local stores.

The Draft

To start you must form two teams of players, with each team having an equal number of members. The most common team sizes in team draft are with teams of two, three, or four, with teams of three players being the most common and preferable. Teams can be formed by prior arrangement or randomly.

As opposed to team Rochester where teammates sit next to each other, in team booster draft each member will sit at the table with players of the opposing team on either side of them. For example in a 3 on 3 team booster draft the players will sit at the table in the following order:

Team A player - Team B player - Team A player
Team B player- Team A player - Team B player

Drafting of the cards will proceed like a normal booster draft, with each player opening packs at the same time, taking 1 card and passing the pack and reversing the pass direction with each set of packs.

Once the draft is done each team will build their decks together. While you cannot trade with or give cards to your teammates, you can discuss the draft, what you passed and what you think your opponent's decks may contain. You can also help each other build your decks, and offer advice on how to deal with each member of the opposing team.

Determining the Winning Team

Unlike most sanctioned tournaments, the two teams will play round robin, with each member on a team playing each member on the opposing team. For example in a 3 on 3 team booster draft a total of 9 matches will be played. Rounds are usually not timed, as this is a very friendly / unofficial format.

The winner of a team booster draft is determined by the number of match wins your team has. In a 3 on 3 draft this is easy as there are an odd number of matches played, the first team with 5 match wins wins the draft. In drafts with an even number of matches you need to use some kind of tie-breaking procedure. In 2 on 2 drafts, if at the end of the round robin matches each team has 2 match wins each team will select a member to settle the draft. The representatives from each team will play one final match against each other, the winner of which will determine which team wins the draft. In a 4 on 4 team draft if at the end of the round robin rounds each team has 8 match wins each team will select 1 team member to NOT play a final round Then the three chosen people on each side will randomly play a match with one other person on the opposing team. The team that manages to win at least 2 of these three tie-breaking matches will win the draft.


As these drafts are not sanctioned, they do not have a tournament organizer or prizes. Because of this the players involved in the draft will have to agree on what the winning team will receive at the end of the draft. One of the more common methods is that the winning team will win all of the rares and foil cards that were opened by both teams in the draft. Sometime players will agree on an 'entry fee' that each player will submit, with the winning team winning all of that money. (This is why this format is often called money draft.) More hardcore pro players will play for all of the above, rares / foils / and money. The individual teams can then decide how to split up the winnings. Whichever system you decide to use, just make sure that all of the players involved agree on the specifics before the draft starts.

Strategy / Hate Drafting

The only strategic difference between booster draft and team booster draft concerns when you hate draft. (For those unaware, hate drafting is when you take a card that you do not intend to play just so someone else does not get it.) In an individual booster draft, hate drafting does not always pay off as not everyone in that pod will be one of your opponent; you do not know who you will be playing against. However if you allow a really good card to get into the hand of an opponent, then you, and each other member of your team, will have to play that player. Because of this it is more common to see people use a first pick to hate draft a card in pack 2 or 3.

Final Comments

This is one my favorite ways to play. You don't have to have as many people as you would for a sanctioned draft so it is much easier to get one together. You can learn a lot by talking amongst your teammates about that specific draft or draft strategy in general. You also will get a guaranteed number of matches played, as this is not a single elimination tournament. I think that this is one of the best ways for beginning players to learn the fundamentals of draft, as they will have teammates to help them out.
* General Sealed Strategy / Article Links

Here is an excerpt from an article that Anne Forsythe wrote awhile ago. This is a list of basic rules given to her by her husband Aaron, former Pro Tour player and current editor:

1. Remember this ratio: 23 creatures/spells and 17 mana. No more than 40 cards per deck was I allowed.

2. Make three piles of cards from your packs - Creatures, Removal/Bounce, Draw/Discard. Forget about any other cards.

3. Review removal cards first - the color with the largest amount of good removal will be one of the colors in your deck.

4. Review creature cards, use those creatures of same color as your removal, then use your own judgement as to what other removal color was strong and try to match up other creatures. Don't forget to check casting cost and compare it to what the abilities and strength of the cards are.

5. Do not make a deck based on more than three colors.

6. Add up creature and spell cards from previous steps. Weed out or add as necessary to get the magic number "23."

7. Check your mana curve - this will also help in determining which cards will make the cut.

8. Determine your mana. Count up total number of cards of each color, divide it by two round up to nearest whole number and add one. You will need that much of the land type that corresponds with that color. Now, this is obviously a more basic set of guidelines than your more experienced deck builders are going to use, but it goes to the same ideals in that it defines card quality. This approach differs from mine as it eliminates cards until there are 23, while I take the opposite approach, starting with what I feel is the greatest strength of my card pool and building around it. Either system is applicable, and if you're very inexperienced in the building of sealed decks, I'd recommend using it instead of the process I'll use here.

The rest of the article is mostly a tournament report, but if you want you can find it here:

Here are some other decent articles on building a sealed deck:
(Gary Wise wrote the article above and he refers to Anne Forsythe's article as well)

And finally an article on why you should try playing sealed deck, the tournaments process and some basics how to build a sealed deck:
You are linked up in the FAQ links, and you can include the link in your FAQ if you wish:
bump for pruning purposes
Just out of curiosity, suppose I'm cheap or broke (or both) because I already spent all my money on magic cards and I still want to draft...
Suppose then I were to take up a whole bunch of leftover draftees and shuffle them together and re-pack and re-draft them...
How much of all that you're saying still applies?
For practice on picks and to get a feel of opened packs:

Under Utilities section.

~ Megan
Originally posted by wrathofmegs
For practice on picks and to get a feel of opened packs:

Under Utilities section.

~ Megan

that's a wonderful utility, megs, but i have to wonder about the rating system. i mean, if higher numbers = higher picks, then how does groffskithur have a rating of 60, while sword of light and shadow is 00.00? i realize the sword isn't as good as fire and ice, but groffskithur is a last pick always....
Originally posted by kriz_riktr

Also if you have them you can draft some of the older 8 cards packs, but you will need more than three.

First, thanks for your FAQ. It helps a lot.

Now I've no problem with draft rules, but I still have questions concerning old 8-cards packs :

° shall I use 5 boosters * number of players (40 cards / player) or 6 boosters/player (48 cards/player) ?

° when we open booster, shall we open 3 times 2 boosters (3 draft turns of 16 cards) or 5/6 times 1 booster (draft turns of 8 cards) ?
Originally posted by thefonz37
that's a wonderful utility, megs, but i have to wonder about the rating system. i mean, if higher numbers = higher picks, then how does groffskithur have a rating of 60, while sword of light and shadow is 00.00? i realize the sword isn't as good as fire and ice, but groffskithur is a last pick always....

The ratings are determined by the users. You can submit your own ratings if you don't agree with what other users have posted. So, either someone submitted a rating that is unrealistic, nobody every submitted a rating for the card at all, or in some cases, maybe they know something you don't.

In the case of the two cards you pointed out, someone submitted a pretty bad ranking for groffskithur, and for sword of light and shadow, nobody every submitted a rating (probably because it is rare). The commons tend to be rated first by users, for obvious reasons.
ok that makes sense, considering i just got a 4th-pick ravager

just wanna congrats you on your Ask the Judge column on Starcity and send my regards to Sheldon :D

PS. if you have emails from gendruw(at)hotmail(dot)com asking rule questions, you know what to do :P
Ok, I play casual only. I've taken part in 3 un-sanctioned tournaments (that's what I get for living in a town of around 1k people). 2 were sealed deck, one was draft. I won those. The third I only entered because they were short people, and I lost horribly to the old-school players. I love sealed deck.

But, for people like me, what are some of the game rules I may not have noticed/followed while playing casual? Just so I don't end up looking like a tottal jerk during the next pre-release, which I plan to attend. I have read the book, but I did not understand a ton of it. (I have read quite a bit of Saturday school).
Small question concerning some Limited Lingo. Why are Bombs called Bombs? I assumed that they had a negative connotation, but apparently I assumed wrong. And it doesn't make sense to me.
Small question concerning some Limited Lingo. Why are Bombs called Bombs? I assumed that they had a negative connotation, but apparently I assumed wrong. And it doesn't make sense to me.

A bomb impacts the game, as a "bomb" creates an impact when it explodes.

Example of a bomb is Hex, which is often a one-sided Wrath.
How does limited two-headed giant sealed work? like in the second day at some prereleases. I would like to try one for planar chaos but don't know how it will work, theres also two-headed giant drafting that I'm not sure how it works either...thanks
2HG sealed would be the same as ordinary sealed deck. A team gets 1 tournament pack and 4 boosters (if i recall correctly) and build two decks.

2HG draft works differently. A team would get 6 boosters (So, each player would get 3 boosters), then each team open 1 booster and pick two cards, pass like usual, rinse and repeat until all boosters has been opened. From the cardpool a team would build 2 decks.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Just wondering if it would be a good idea to add in the time limits. For picking, building, ect. As this may help some newer folks.
2HG sealed would be the same as ordinary sealed deck. A team gets 1 tournament pack and 4 boosters (if i recall correctly) and build two decks.

Yeah, except you get 1 tournament pack and 5 boosters for sealed. At coldsnap you got 7 boosters though. Minimum deck size is 40.
For practice on picks and to get a feel of opened packs:

Under Utilities section.

~ Megan

Is there a better one? This one the cpu doesnt follow a color making it ridiculously easy to get a good draft.
Is direct damage and things that put /-x counters on things considered direct damage? Also, are things that do direct damage to players only worth putting into a deck for booster draft?
Is direct damage and things that put /-x counters on things considered direct damage? Also, are things that do direct damage to players only worth putting into a deck for booster draft?

Direct damage refers to card that can deal damage to a player (like Blaze, Lava Axe). These cards should be included automaticaly in a deck only if they are scalable (like Blaze). Other card that do a fixed amout of damage depend on the power level and other cards drafted.

Cards that lower a creature toughness (Afflict) or cards that do damage to a creature (Incinerate) are consider removal and drafting those is important.
How do you exactly draft Lorwyn and Morningtide? How many packs of each and in what order?
How do you exactly draft Lorwyn and Morningtide? How many packs of each and in what order?

For sanctioned tournaments, when drafting from a block in which two sets have been released, you draft two packs of the first set and one of the second.

So, 2 Lorwyn, 1 Morningtide.


For answers to future questions, you may start your own thread instead of posting in the FAQ.
I kinda feel bad about posting here, but shouldn't some of this stuff be updated perhaps?  This is supposed to be among the first threads people look at when they come in here, right?  So having a 7-year old explanation (although it is a very good one) might be a tad outdated.  Also, in the additional information post, none of the article links work, I assume due to the forum switch.

Also, I don't think I have half the knowledge necessary to actually do what I suggest, so someone else please?  Heh, feel kinda like all talk no work but it's true.
REMEMBER FLUFFY, mercilessly slain by the bastard Useless Mancer
Fluffy, the cute and cuddly baloth beatstick of marshmellowy fluffyness and lolz, om-nom-noming Keeper's wicked soul; its insane, deadly amount of cuteness rips the fabric of reality to shreds, its pink, soft, round teeth dripping with honey, every breath spreading the repugnant smell of fresh flowers, this horrifying creature of destruction devastates Keeper by spreading its deadly, all-powerful fluff over the countryside, laying waste to dragon and furry bunny alike. It comes howling out of the east, an endless rattling and gnashing of teeth, a twisted grinding pull on the very fabric of reality threatening to consume body and mind alike in an endless glimmering pink torrent. Nothing is more terrible than the sun glittering on its teeth, save perhaps the light glancing off the oily tones of the sequins that cover its hotpants. Of course, there was that child who tried to eat Fluffy, mistaking him for a giant, walking piece of cotton candy. That child... is now the almighty leader of Fluffy, controlling his every move, sending him to devour the people that cross his path. And Keeper. Because we said so. Nothing can stop Fluffy's march to victory, spreading the sweet smell of strawberries where ever it lays its mighty paw. Followed by many jolly fairies singing joyful songs about Fluffy's cuddlyness, the baloth wanders the mountains of Zendikarland on a quest to share the love with Keeper, tough love that is...
Fluffy, we'll miss you friend. We'll miss you...
Siggy Siggables
56544366 wrote:
My other name consideration was "Thermodynamics of Doom!"
58271798 wrote:
Master Yumyums! Master Yumyums! I made it even more unfun! Spirited Betrayal Sorcery All lands are copies of Night of Souls' Betrayal. The legend rule doesn't apply to them. *Headsplosion*
56267956 wrote:
76064519 wrote:
If they make Mono-blue control a viable option for FNM again, I'm going to force myself to browse 4chan while listening to Hannah Montana and Justin Bieber and then I'm going to read Twilight books before I go to sleep for 1 whole week...
I already do that.
56544366 wrote:
57718868 wrote:
Use of caps lock: 9/10
58438088 wrote:
We were goddamn slowly making our way towards those **** mountains. The road was all filthy and wet, bird **** on every step and eldrazi piss raining from the sky. "So those ****tards are finally awake huh?" my idiotic companion asked. "Yep, we're in deep ****, homie." "Wazzup?" "Nothing, just pissed." My companion looked to the sky. A drop of the eldrazi urine fell right in his eye. "Oh, man. Now I'm pissed too." As we were moving on, we were looking around on the innocent nature. Two baloths were doing it on the road so we had to make a little detour. The pools of piss were kinda unpleasant but at least it was warm so we had no trouble at night. "One gets used to piss running down your face you know." said my companion. "F'shizzle." answered I stoicly and kicked two rabbits, who were doing nasty things to each other's ass, in the ass. "Man one can't take a spit here without hitting some shamming animals." "Word. Zendikar sucks. Hope the eldrazi contribute a little to the population regulation." As my companion said that, a gigantic, 20 meters tall eldrazi slithered by. On it's arms and tentacles were remains of birds, rabbits, baloths, angels, planeswalkers, dragons, krakens and a few cities. We stood up and clapped loudly. "A few bitches less." (People don't get banned for such posts do they?)
58021268 wrote:
Am I the only one? Looking over the recent threads debating the merits of "Belgium," the various ideas to "fix" England and other topics which concern European nations, I'm struck by how much I don't care what happens. Britain and Spain are, to me, completely inaccessible due to the Atlantic Ocean, not to mention volcanoes and socialism. I sound like I'm bashing European nations, and I guess I kind of am. If you enjoy living in France, Luxembourg, Poland or any other, older nation, that's fantastic. I just don't see why there's such a huge uproar about a volcano that is mostly affecting a niche group of people.
57008088 wrote:
57036138 wrote:
56957928 wrote:
57052258 wrote:
Hell, I don't even like that they printed Pillarfield Ox
I'm real happy for you, and I'mma let you finish, but pillarfield ox has one of the best pieces of art of all time. Of all time.
Really? I don't really see the greatness.
It's an Ox. In a PILLARFIELD. That's like, a field of frickin' PILLARS, but to this Ox it just looks like an ordinary field of grass - because he is so BADASS.
56916508 wrote:
Finally, Master Yumyums just had probably the most boring, worthless card in the entire contest. Why would you need to give creatures -1/-0 on your turn? To beat them down with your nonflying blue aggro deck that plays a bad win condition card to win (and if you are playing the critters, why aren't you winning with them?!)? And the win condition itself is so mindblowingly difficult it seems like it was only made simply to fit the criteria.
Derivative Radial Tangent Calculation of Pure, Absolute, Utmost, Uncontestable and Utter Doom Newton's Second Law of Equations As an additional calculation to add to ~, reveal a Mathematical Equation from your hand, with a converted mana casting cost equal to a Prime Number. (Prime numbers are 2, 3, 5, 7, 11 13, 17...) ~ costs ƒ(x) = Σπ(δƒ(u)-ƒ(x)) if you're a fan of René Descartes in Facebook. ~ deals X damage to each creature your opponents control within a radius of X KM from ~, where X is the revealed Equation's converted mana cost. ~ deals Y damages to target player, where Y is the area of the Sphere (using the first 50 digits of pi as pi). ~ deals Z less damage, where Z is the distance in Lightyears from the centerpoint of the Sphere. Add up X, Y and Z and round it up to the closest number. Multiply the damage ~ would deal by m, where m is the number of multiples of that number. Calculate the first 50 Fibonaci numbers: Deal the difference between the 25-50th numbers, and the first 25 numbers. As long as the angular acceleration of an object t approaches maximum velocity relative to the cross product of a vector n and its bisector as the object passes through point Q at vector n's convergence in zero gravity, Disastrous Radial Tangent Calculation can't be countered. As long as you can do a geometric proof of anything on this card, target opponent must be doing one. Otherwise, he or she loses the game. (both games. you just lost the game.)
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