W/B EDH Control

Vampire Control

Saturday, July 30, 2011, 3:56 PM

The following is my son's recent Vampire EDH deck. He uses Vish Kal, Blood Arbiter and it is a Vampire deck, but it shows how a tribal deck can be tribal themed, but not tribal saturated. There are plenty of Vampires, but the ones he includes (for the most part) are ones that work towards his theme of supporting Vish Kal as the main win con, and Life Gain as a secondary theme. He does not (again for the most part) include vampires because they are vampires, but only if they work.

This deck is VERY effective in 1v1, but has not been tested in multiplayer yet. On the one hand it has a ton of removal and control to protect it, on the other hand it is an obvious threat, on the third hand you do not want to draw the ire of the deck either. It will be an interesting experience to play in multiplayer.

General:
Vish Kal, Blood Arbiter ^V

Tokens:
Segnir Nosferatu ^V
Teysa, Orzhov Scion
Skeletal Vampire ^V

Assorted Vamps:
Vampire Nighthawk ^V
Blood Seeker ^V*
Segnir Vampire ^V

Protection:
Lightning Greaves
Darksteel Plate
Argentum Armor
Champion's Helm

Creature Boost:
Caged Sun
Coat of Arms
Urge to Feed
Captivating Vampire ^V
Blade of the Bloodchief
Archangel of Strife
Crescendo of War
Lashwrithe

Recurrsion/Tutor:
Diabolic Tutor
Reanimate
Karmic Guide
Living Death
Stitch Together
Betrayal of Flesh

Life Gain:
Sangromancer ^V
Proper Burial
True Conviction
Kalastria Highborn ^V
Congregate
Felidar Sovereign
Chancellor of the Dross *^V
Malakir Bloodwitch ^V

Control:
Bloodhusk Ritualist ^V
Ghostly Prison
Vampire Hexmage ^V
Sword of Feast and Famine
Scythe Specter
Chancellor of the Annex

Removal:
Sheoldred, Whispering One ^V
Cruel Edict
Butcher of Malakir ^V
Gatekeeper of Malakir ^V
Feast of Blood
Phyrexian Rebirth
Journey to Nowhere
Oblivion Ring
Revoke Existance
Austere Command
Drana, Kalastria Bloodchief ^V
Unmake
False Prophet
Mageta the Lion
Gravepact
Life's Finale
Oblivion Stone

Draw:
Gravestorm
Skullclamp

Land:
Orzhov Basilica
Vivid Marsh
Bojuka Bog
Command Tower
Caves of Koilos
Emeria, the Sky Ruin
12x Plains
22x Swamp

*- These are cards I think should be removed because there are better choices, but this deck wins a lot, so who am I to mess with it.
^V- Vampires

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black, Blood Arbiter, Commander, Control, EDH, Magic , mtg, Teysa, vampire, Vish Kal, white

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Common Threads Series: Card Storage and Sorting

Monday, July 25, 2011, 3:30 PM

Categories: Magic: The Gathering

First of all, I should say at the start: "Hello, my name is Gern Blanston and I am addicted to card organizing.

I have organized my collection several times, either because one of my kids has dumped it, or I did not like the way I had organized previously. I have used several systems and storage containers, but the system I use now (binders) is the easiest for me when I am making decks. I can grab the few I need, take them in to the living room, and get busy. It can be a pain putting a lot of cards away, but there are a lot of ways to make this easier.

First of all I have 20, colored-coded, 3" binders (two for each color) with the colors corresponding to the color of cards in them. I also have 3" binders for each other type (artifact+Colorless, gold/multicolored). For each color (or binder as the case may be) I have most of my common and uncommon cards (intermixed) sorted by card type (Instants, Sorcery, Enchantment, Creatures), and then alphabetically. I put up to 4 cards in each pocket, and some cards I use in a lot of decks will have 3-4 pockets. If I have more than 4 of a card, and I am not likely to need multiple playsets of that card I will set them aside to glue proxy's to, or give away to new players.

The exceptions to the above are artifacts (colored and colorless) and colorless non-artifacts. Eldrazi threw my system for a loop and so far I just sort them in with the artifact creatures or artifacts (for colorless instants or sorceries).

Then I have my rare binders. These are two binders that can be zipped closed, with most of my rares not currently in decks and and not from the last two sets, that are simply sorted by color (,multi-color,artifact) then alphabetically. The lands are in another 1.5" zipper binder simply sorted by alphabetical order, with full art lands in the back sorted by color.

The final binders are three more 1.5" zipper binders that I keep my constructed staples (and my proxies that I am likely to need again), and one 2" binder for tha two most current sets. I frequently will go through the staples binders and down-grade cards from constructed staples to make room, putting the removed cards in their corresponding binders. Because I consider these staples I am less likely to trade these, but their frequency of use and sometimes value of the cards included makes in important that I can zip these closed. The Current binder is the only one I have that is sorted by collector's number, and in it there is one pocket designated for each number (with numbers on the pockets), and can hold the last three sets. I did this because I found myself having to update my other binders frequently with the last set, and I do not find organizing my whole collection by collector's number to be all that useful. By having a permanent pocket for each card in the set I never have to do anything more than slide the card in it's spot, and I can tell easily what I need more of, and what I can pass on to others. If I could find a 3" zipper closed binder that I liked I would unclude the entire current block in there, but so far no-go.

I also have a small trade binder, but I don't trade often so most of the time I do not keep it maintained.

Lastly I have a milk crate full of fatpack boxes, a couple of Archive quality photo boxes, and a few deck builders tool kit boxes. The archive boxes have been sectioned off with cardboard in to rows (one box has two rows wide enough for sleeved cards, the other 3 rows unsleeved). All of these are unsorted cards (seperated by color) that I have not put away yet, my overflow non-basic lands, snow covered basics, and basic lands (sorted by art and color).

In addition to the unsorted cards in boxes, I also have my less frequently used proxies, my decks (see Common Threads Series: Deck box for more details), and my tokens and counters. The tokens an counters I sort by color and alphabetically, and I sleeve them. Why do I sleeve worthless tokens? Because then they are less likely to get shuffled in to one of my decks at the end of the game- especially since they are frequently not the same kind of sleeve as the deck.

It was a lot of work organizing them the last time, but I enjoyed it. I would just do it in front of the TV at night and soon everything was in it's place. Now when I build a deck I just grab the binders I need and start building. If I take a deck apart or get new (non-rare) cards they might sit in unsorted, but soon get put away.

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card boxes, carying case, mtg, storage

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My First Commander Deck: Guidlines

Saturday, July 23, 2011, 10:04 PM

Categories: Magic: The Gathering

The following is a set of instructions I give to all new EDH players, because I see many of the same construction mistakes with most new players. I try to give construction guidelines, rather than too many specific cards, as people give and get plenty of specific card advice.

Think BIG!- You have to deal with 40 points of life (or 21 points of general damage) so your beat-sticks need to be BIG. If a creature has a power or toughness or 4 or less, then there better be another dang good reason (ie some other utility ) the card is included.
The graveyard is a play zone, do not forget it. Your games are going to be longer and people will pack a ton of removal. Since most removal put's cards in the graveyard, you should pack ways to get them back out again no matter what color your are running. Black is not the only color abusing the grave in edh, and since playing from the graveyard is common, you should pack some ways to exile cards in the graveyard, or the whole graveyard itself.
Becuse people use the graveyard often, try to find removal that will exile the card. Return to Dust is staggeringly good in EDH because you will see plenty of targets to remove, and most of the time doing it during your main phase is no sweat. Keep in mind people will try to exile your cards too, and there is only one spell that brings back cards from exile, so find a way to protect your pet permanents. Oh, and don't waste an exile spell on a General unless you really have to.
100 cards (60 spells) seems like a lot, but it is very restricting. You are opposing a vast number of play and win strategies, and to prepare you will want to put in answers for everything. This is good, but it means you have to be really efficient about how you do it. Don't include a spell that does one thing just because it is cheap. What is efficient in standard ( Mana Leak ) is next to useless in EDH. Try to find spells that do a little something extra for a small price bump. Counterspell is still very good at what it does, but when you are adding more counters in and you look at Cancel and you think to yourself "could this do more?". Why not Fuel for the Cause ? Naturalize is okay, but Slice in Twain , and Krosan Grip are better- and Indrik Stomphowler , and Acidic Slime are miles better.
Land base should start at 40 mana sources from land. That is pretty universally accepted. From there everyone has a little different take on how the deck style, amount of colors, or amount of other mana sources effect the final land count. For me it is something like:
-->4-5 colors is 40 lands plus a ton of mana tutor
-->3 colors 39-40 depending on how well I can secure my colors (if green is present then perhaps 38)
-->2 colors 38+. This is really quite flexible and is really easy to achieve.
-->1 color 37-38, I might even go as low as 36 for mono-green, but I better be packin.
100 cards is a lot to get through, even in a long game, and as we all know: "Card advantage is king." You will need tutors (I include 4+ land tutors if the color allows) and draw spells in multiples.
Removal will save your hide, as pointed out above. Targeted creature destruction is the easiest to avoid, so avoid it. Forcing your opponent to sac creatures is soooo much better, but most colors do not hae this option. You will see plenty of artifacts and enchantments that will ruin your day, so pack at least 4 if not 6 ways to destroy them. Remember, if it seems like your color can't do something, you are probably overlooking something. Shatter + Liquimetal Coating = Red enchantment destruction.
(some may disagree wildly with me on this) Targeted land destruction is not mean. In a format where an opponent's Academy Ruins keeps bringing back hateful artifacts you need a way to get rid of that land. Land is often used for many other things aside from mana production, and some of those things will ruin your battle plan. Targeted land destruction should be in every deck, even if it is not used to screw your opponent's pace. Creeping Mold is about as utilitarian as a sorcery can get, for green, and you should be prepared to destroy land with it. If you opponent is outpacing you (perhaps you are screwed, or he is ramping like crazy) then you need to knock off their pace in order for you to succeed. Don't be a jerk- avoid mass land destruction, but you will regret not having any targeted LD.
You may look at these rules and say to yourself "My playgroup wont have that", but think again. Perhaps they got the same advice and they listened, or what if you play with a random dude at your FLGS, or perhaps you are just wrong and they will "have that". A winning EDH deck is all about preparing for as many situations as possible and doing it in the most efficient way.