Traitorous Instinct and Adaptive Automaton

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The last game I played, I was in a situation to where I didn't have an answer. I have been playing for about 14 to almost 15 years, but from time to time I get mixed up with all this new content (I've had breaks in playing here and there). So in the situation, my friend had Adaptive Automaton(M12):

"As Adaptive Automaton enters the battlefield, choose a creature type."
"Adaptive Automaton is the chosen type in addition to its other types."
"Other creatures you control of the chosen type get +1/+1."
2/2 Artifact Creature - Construct

out and still during the creature's summoning sickness phase with the chosen type of "Soldier". As my turn was next since he ended his turn, I played the Sorcery card Traitorous Instinct(Return to Ravnica):

"Gain control of target creature until end of turn. Untap that creature. Until end of turn, it gets +2/+0 and gains haste."

on his Adaptive Automaton. Here is the part where I got confused. When I play Traitorous Instinct on Adaptive Automaton, am I able to select a new Creature type and give creatures that are under my control already, "Berserker", those benefits from Adaptive Automaton's passive ability? Or would I not be able to choose a new creature type since it was already done as "Soldier". Since playing Traitorous Instinct it gains haste, and isn't haste only affecting creatures under summoning sickness, would that not count as entering the battlefield? I'm very sure that it doesn't change creature types since it was already selected when it was first cast by my friend. But I'm just checking incase this situation happens again.
You need to take rules questions to Rules Q&A from now on.

Gaining control of a creature that's on the battlefield does not mean it "enters the battlefield." Its type remains soldier even if you borrow it. 
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Are you making a casual mill deck? Please read.
Control is the key of a mill deck. You should free up your mana as much as possible so that you can respond to whatever your opponent is doing. Having some way to remove threats, both real and percieved, is necessary to survival. Real threats are those that are already on the field, and are something a simple unsummon or doom blade can remove. Percieved threats are those that aren't on the field, something a simple duress or counterspell can deal with. Controlling the board will allow your mill deck to continuously perform, if you use permanent style mill, that is. One-Shot Mill spells are something you should avoid. You can toss tome scours at your opponent until your hand runs out, but that isn't going to be enough to mill them to death. With 1-shot mill spells, like tome scour, you have to treat them like burn spells. Therefore, the only "good" 1-shot mill spells are sanity grinding (in the right deck) and mind funeral. Try to find more permanent styles of milling, like memory erosion, hedron crab, and curse of the bloody tome, so that you don't have to waste your mana each turn doing something that those permanents can do with a single mana/turn investment. Keeping your mana open allows you to respond with control elements. ​Traumatize Rant​. Traumatize is a terrible card for a multitude of reasons. First, it costs 5 to cast, which is a large investment for a mill deck. Milling half a library sounds neat, but if you do the math, it really isn't that much. An average 60 card deck starts with drawing 7 cards. Then, barring any draw spells on their end, or ramp on yours, 5 turns will go by, where they draw 5 more cards, leaving 48 in the deck. Unless they had a deck with more than 60 cards, or you ramped it out, the most you'll ever mill with a single Traumatize on turn 5 is 24 cards. That's not too shabby, but hang on, there's more! If they drew any additional cards or if they were milled before turn 5, that number will be much lower. In addition, any more Traumatize's you draw will only mill less and less as the game goes on...which is the point of a mill deck. My whole point on Traumatize is the it is NOT worth the 5 mana investment, not even with haunting echoes. You can mill more than 24 before turn 5...which you can then cast the echoes. If you look at a mill deck like a burn deck, you'll notice that it takes longer to win with mill than with burn. For example, lightning bolt costs 1 and does 3 out of the 20 damage needed to win (barring any lifegain or damage prevention). For mill, that same investment of 1 would have to mill 9 cards out of an average 60 card deck to be the equivilent of lightning bolt. The problem is that there is no mill card that can do that...except hedron crab, over a period of time. The initial investment of 1 will pay off in 3 more land drops to make the crab equal to a bolt. However, the crab nets you more mill beyond those 3 land drops, making it better as the game draws on. Other cards, like curse of the bloody tome, are excellent ways of milling an opponent because the initial investment of is all you have to pay in order to put your opponent on a clock. All you have to do is stay alive, which is the true goal of a mill strategy. There are other ideas for mill decks that are specific to certain types of strategies. Combo mill decks can mill an entire player's library out from under them. Secondary mill strategies are usually tied to another strategy, like drowner of secrets in a merfolk deck, or halimar excavator in an ally deck. Milling can be done in certain decks that are able to ramp out enough mana to make use of the higher costing mill spells, like using 16 post to pay for X on sands of delirium or for ambassador laquatus. Multiplayer mill decks are even tougher to build, but can be done. Being a slower environment, it is easier to ramp in multiplayer, allowing for big X spells, like mind grind, to be useful. Consuming aberration is another star player. The more straightforward strategy is to use mesmeric orb and dreamborn muse while being the only deck at the table that can deal with it. There are always new strategies coming out with each set, so check gatherer for any new mill cards that you find to be the most fun for you! Now you can say that you haven't fallen into the trap that most new players fall into when they build their first mill deck!
Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. Since the game I was in was 3 players total(I know I didn't mention the 3rd player) I figured multiplayer was a good place to start. Also thank you for answering my question.
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